Emily Brochin

It usually takes me a little longer than my Chowhound brethren to make it to the latest and greatest Philadelphia hot spots. Nevertheless, I always manage to eat at these places sooner or later. I finally went to Xochitl, Steven Cook’s newest venture, this past weekend and had one of those experiences that leaves more questions than answers.

Let me begin with the ambiance: Xochitl pleasingly lacked the bells and whistles that new restaurants often employ to distract from sub-par service and uneven cooking. The lighting was excellent for a date and the place settings were simple and pretty.

I started with a Michelada, which may be the best beverage I’ve ever imbibed. A Micheleda, according to my waitress, was a combination of beer, tomato and pomegranate juice, lime, and other mysterious ingredients. The rim of the glass was dredged in a salt and red pepper mix, which finished each cold sip with a satisfying zing. 

Based on Craig Laban’s rave review of the ceviche de callos con sandia (scallop and watermelon ceviche), I ordered this first. Although the chilled puree was refreshing, it was a bit sweet for my taste, and the composition resembled more of a watermelon soup. Next came the gorditas de huitlachoche (masa pockets with corn fungus). These were delicious, with the rather unsightly huitlacoche happily sandwiched between light corn patties.

Although Xochitl’s menu is on the pricey side, these were an excellent value at a mere $7.00. My entree was the cazuela de calamar al ajillo (squid hot pot with a garlic and guajillo pepper sauce). I enjoyed it, but for some reason, something clashed in the holy combination of peppers, garlic, and squid that simply did not want to mesh with the rest of the ingredients. The churros y chocolate (fried pastries with chocolate sauce) were delicious as churros always are, although the chocolate sauce could not compete with the richer, thicker version served at the less heralded Bar Ferdinand. However, the pan de chocolate y pasilla, chocolate and pasilla pepper cake with sesame seed ice cream and tomatillo sauce, was resplendent. Dipping the moist cake in the tartly sweet tomatillo sauce actually made my heart sing.

I’ve been trying to put my finger on exactly why I left the restaurant feeling satisfied but not wowed. It certainly wasn’t the service or the presentation. Perhaps it was the combination of ordering two items that I found flawed. Either way, I will certainly be returning to Xochitl in the future to drink another Michelada and sample more of their intriguing menu.